97' 190SX Transom Shot, Rebuild Time!

[jdrautoworks]

So got the engine running on it pretty good (still need to find someone to sync it) and went to check the mount bolts and pulled lower portion of the motor plate through the outer skin of the transom. Looks like the lower bolts lost their seal and with the deflection in the transom started some hair line cracks in the splash well. I've done a lot of auto body but no boat repair, know my way around fiberglass but never gel coat. I've decided in doing a pour in place like SeaCast or simular based on my reading so far.

Thought I would see if anyone had any input or first hand experience or anything else that might aid in this venture. Figured I'd pull her down this winter and go through everything, planned on carpet and lighting anyway as well as restoring the trailer.

On a positive note from my reading the transom should be stronger than new and that means I get a jack plate!

For your viewing pleasure the first shows the deflection and what I am going to assume is rotted the second shows where it punched through.

[Delw]

if your assuming its messed up because of the gap in there your more than likely wrong.
from the top to the bottom lip the transom is not usually perfectly flat, The flatness on really matters the length of your motor mount.

stress cracks happen all the time in the splash well. check the inside were it mounts to the bottom of the hull.
nuts more than likely just loosend or bolts stretch, washes might have had a bad seat also. retighten them

[jdrautoworks]

if your assuming its messed up because of the gap in there your more than likely wrong.
from the top to the bottom lip the transom is not usually perfectly flat, The flatness on really matters the length of your motor mount.

stress cracks happen all the time in the splash well. check the inside were it mounts to the bottom of the hull.
nuts more than likely just loosend or bolts stretch, washes might have had a bad seat also. retighten them

Delw, in the second picture where the yellow "L" is on each side of the anode when I torqued the bolts to 40 ft. lbs. it literally punched through the fiberglass. Now I have discolored, brown/red water leaking out of the left side tie down u-bolt at the top of the transom. Here is a pic of the puncture on the left side at the lower motor plate, the right side is the same. I pulled the lower bolts to reseal and took a o-ring pick and poked the plywood and it's soft. The deflection did not show up until I tightened the bolts and I did tap on the transom with a 2lb dead blow and sounded solid. I've read to take these bolts to 55 ft. lbs on champs and I tried 45 and it just kept sucking the mount plate through the fiberglass.

The washers were flat when I pulled to reseal, I did check that and I pulled the left side bold and square washer by hand where as the right side I had to beat out suggesting the failure from no seal.

[Delw]

Sorry didnt see that part, did you pull the bolt and run a pick into the hole to verify?
Scott knows hulls pretty damn godo maybe he will chime in

[jdrautoworks]

Sorry didnt see that part, did you pull the bolt and run a pick into the hole to verify?
Scott knows hulls pretty damn godo maybe he will chime in

I did, stuck an o-ring pick about 1.5" in the left side hole. Took some force but could have went further I fear if the motor plate wasn't in the way. To me told me all I need to know. I did look at all the glass and structure (braces and stringers?) behind the transom and did not see any cracks, delamination, or discoloring so think I caught it early.